![]() ![]() It wasn't always successful-one of Stella Tennant's outfits sprouted unfortunate seaweed panniers-but how many other designers are there who are prepared to take such risks after six decades in the business? Strike that. The ruffles on one dress looked like sea sponges, the iridescent streamers flying from another like seaweed. It was enthralling to watch the way he insinuated his underwater theme into this traditional Chanel lexicon. So there were boxy tweeds, drop waists, mille-feuille pleats, and an ocean of prettiness for the fans. Still, he insisted on something that was recognizably within the codes of the house. Lagerfeld's aim was nothing too "Chanel" because, he sagely noted, there are already so many other people doing that style. 121 Slides Victor VIRGILE//Getty Images As the Spring 2020 collections hit the runways at New York Fashion Week, we're keeping an eye on all the top looks defining the season. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates. And Sam McKnight dotted pearls through the models' slicked-back hair, too. Saint Laurent Spring 2012 Menswear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews. That was also why Lagerfeld strung pearls, instead of belts, around waists. They brought an iridescent mother-of-pearl shimmer to the collection-the lightness literally shone through. ![]() He'd used new fabrics even he didn't know how to define. Chanel hasn't been in existence for quite that long, but there was an impressive, graphic modernity shaped by lengthy natural processes (Karl's thoughts) in most of the 80 or so outfits that strolled around today's massive set. He'd been musing on the fact that forms as modern as anything designed by the architect Zaha Hadid have been shaped at the bottom of the ocean by natural processes taking millions of years. What the water gave Karl was the kind of acute overview that only he could turn into a dazzling collection. The Grand Palais was transformed by huge, blinding white sea shapes-corals, shells, sea horses, stingrays-and Florence Welch arose like Botticelli's Venus on the half shell to sing "What the Water Gave Me." It was a bravura performance all around. Shame.For today's Chanel spectacular, Karl Lagerfeld recast himself as Prospero, conjuring a magical underwater world from the raw stuff of fashion. The low-key eroticism of Frederic Sanchez's soundtrack offered a cue for something a little more passionate, but Pilati didn't take it. ![]() Instead, he denied whatever emotion he is surely feeling right now with precisely proportioned clothes in tones as muted as the loden green that colored a fair number of pieces. That would be a perfect moment to go for broke. An unusually unsettled, even sadistic atmosphere prevails in fashion at the moment, with some designers, Pilati among them, compelled to create clothes under the rumored threat of imminent replacement. It was a curious collection under the circumstances. The painted lips and hair held tight by a half-moon of Barbary gold took the message and ran with it. It was all there in the sepulchral color palette, in the couture volumes, in the restraint and release of scarf tops and kicky little godet skirts. In its allegiance to YSL's classic codes, the one it cleaved to tightest was Belle de Jour, the bon chic, bon genre babe with the dark side. The designer has made an art form of the fashion 180. Although maybe the haute bourgeois collection that Stefano Pilati delivered was designed to emphasize fetishistic extremes. The carousel that team Louis Vuitton set up in the Louvres Cour Carrée was echt Marc Jacobs. Paradisiacal for the shoe guy, problematic for the clothing guy. The shoes! The shoes! Front-rowers Kylie Minogue and Elettra Wiedemann could barely tear their eyes away from the footwear during the Yves Saint Laurent show today. Christian Dior RTW Spring 2012 Regardless of who is designing, there is a loyal Dior customer who wants to buy and her real-life needs were addressed by Bill Gaytten.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |